If you’re getting frustrated at not seeing any light after placing the batteries in your brand new PeeDar, or PeeDar 2.0, don’t worry, it could well be that you’ve simply put them in wrong. So long as you have all the necessary working components this is a relatively easy and quick task to complete!
Firstly, check you’ve got the correct batteries. This is essential, incorrect batteries can lead to markedly reduced operating times or low/no glows. They’ll need to be fully, or near-fully charged, within their ‘use-by’ date (not ‘manufactured on’ date!) and AAA sized (8650 batteries also fit, but without the caddy!) so they can fit perfectly in the battery caddy. Using well known brand names, such as Duracell, Energizer and Samsung, is generally a good idea if you’re worried about quality and low, or unstable power output. You can use standard alkaline batteries or rechargeable, and even lithium (see our blog post on what the best batteries to use are).
Next, ensure your PeeDar, or PeeDar 2.0, is not missing any parts, each torch should consist of (in order of left to right per image below):
1 x Head piece
1 x Battery Caddy
1 x Cylindrical shaft
1 x Clicker end, with leash
With a complete torch and the correct batteries you can now follow the four simple and easy steps below to correctly insert batteries into your battery caddy, and then place this caddy into your shiny new UV torch 🙂
1. Your battery caddy should have a positive end, seen by the central outward protruding metal piece (and usually an indented “+” symbol nearby in the plastic), and similarly it should have a flatter looking negative end, with a protruding metal ring (there should be a negative “-” mark in the plastic too). Another way of distinguishing each end of the caddy, if the caddy is correctly constructed, is that the positive end has just one spring in one of the 3 battery chambers, whilst the negative end has 2 springs (each in their own battery chamber). A final way to determine the positive or negative end of the caddy is by looking for the embossed arrows in the out-facing plastic walls between battery chambers, all arrows point in the same direction, i.e. to the positive end.
2. Place your AAA batteries in each of the 3 battery chambers, each battery’s flat ‘negative’ end should sit against a spring, the protruding ‘positive’ end should sit against the chamber’s non-spring, i.e. flatter, end. When correctly inserted, 2 batteries should have their positive ends at the caddy’s positive end, and there should be just one positive battery end at the caddy’s negative end.
3. Roughly half way down the side of the barrel of the caddy there should be an arrow marking on the outfacing plastic walls, pointing to the caddy’s positive end. When the battery caddy is correctly loaded with batteries screw off the clicker end of the flashlight and slide the caddy in, placing the caddy’s positive end in first, i.e. with the arrow pointing to the head (LED) end. This arrow is in the positioning diagram on both the PeeDar and PeeDar 2.0’s packaging! Then securely fasten the clicker end back on the torch, and make sure the head end of the flashlight is tightly screwed on. You should now be able to switch on the torch by pressing the rubber button on the clicker end of your UV flashlight.
You should now see that your PeeDar, or PeeDar 2.0, lights up nicely when you press the on/off clicker switch, each LED beaming out that all important ultraviolet light 😀
4. If you find there is no light after following these instructions, repeat the above process 2 more times from scratch, to ensure you’ve gone through everything correctly. If after the third time you still have zero light emitted, use different batteries (preferably new, or failing that, ones you’re able to see work well in another electrical appliance). If there is still no light, even with new batteries, use our contact page on https://urineeradicationsystems.com/contact-us/ or contact us directly via your order in your Amazon account, we’ll then do our best to fast and effectively resolve your issues.
I hope this has all made sense, and that after following the steps above you’ve now got a fully functioning UV flashlight!
https://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/20170601_1623391.jpg24483264adminhttps://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/site-logo5-300x137.pngadmin2017-06-01 16:43:012018-03-14 11:49:53How To Correctly Install Batteries In My PeeDar Or PeeDar 2.0 UV Flashlight
You’ve just bought your brand new PeeDar and are starting to instantly discover loads of previously invisible stains, but perhaps you’re wondering if there are more powerful, longer lasting batteries that could help you spot even more. Batteries are a key part of your PeeDar UV flashlight, they hugely impact the strength and consistency of emitted ultra violet light. The more UV output the better and easier stains are to spot, but with the massive range of batteries out there what exactly are the best ones to use?
Battery technology is improving all the time, as soon as you begin to look at batteries in any detail things can get complicated pretty fast. Outlined here is a no-nonsense to-the-point guide detailing:
battery sizes that fit into both the PeeDar and PeeDar 2.0
battery types you’re able to use, alongside their pros and cons
our final judgement on the best batteries to buy
Battery sizes that work:
standard AAA – 3 are required, fitted snugly into the battery caddy.
18650 – one single battery will work in the PeeDar 2.0 only, not the original PeeDar! You’ll need to remove the battery caddy completely, then carefully place the 18650 into the empty flashlight barrel. Please note, due to this flashlight not being built to accommodate this size of battery, the head spring is bent severely, this could slowly weaken the spring over a fairly long period (i.e. years) time.
Battery types that you can use:
Single Use:
Alkaline
Pros – strong initial power output, stores well (5-7 Yr.’s), moderate price, widely available.
Cons – whilst in use its energy output reduces. Expensive in the long run due to constant replacement.
Lithium
Pros – exceptional energy storage, the best size-for-size. Superior for working in extreme temperatures, hot or sub-zero. Amongst the longest storage time of all, 10-15 Yr.’s.
Cons – so powerful it can sometimes fry circuitry – can be risky to try with some UV LED flashlights. Expensive to buy and will eventually need replacing.
Heavy Duty or General Purpose
Pros – cheap.
Cons – shortest life of any battery, will need replacing often. Poor for extended use, especially with outdoor devices. Amongst the shortest shelf life, 3-5 Yr.’s.
Rechargeable:
Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH)
Pros – discharges energy at a highly constant rate. Also works in higher-drain devices. Performs quite well in cold conditions. Better long-term value than single use batteries. Better for the environment due to lower toxicity chemicals being present than cadmium-based batteries. Recyclable.
Cons – initially high expense. Discharges its power relatively fast when not in use. Longevity reduced if stored in warmer conditions. Needs an initial charge before first use, and if left unused at least one charge every 1-2 months. Can’t be charged as many times as NiCd batteries. Energy capacity reduces by 1-15% after 100+ recharges. Dropping, or rough handling, can damage and reduce performance. Performs best when used in a ‘smart charger’ specifically designed for NiMH batteries. Less efficient in low-drain devices such as UV flashlights.
Pre-charged NiMH
Pros – Same as NiMH batteries (see above). Also, can use immediately after purchase. Much reduced loss of energy (self-discharge rate) when not in use, therefore good in infrequently used devices.
Cons – moderate initial expense. Can’t be recharged as many times as NiCd batteries. 10-15% energy reduction after 100-300 recharges.
Nickel Cadmium (NiCd)
Pros – less expensive than NiMH batteries. Can be recharged a higher number of times than NiMH batteries. Very rugged, not easily damaged. Moderate self-discharge rate of around 20% per month.
Cons – often has less than 50% the energy capacity of most NiMH batteries. Bad for the environment, due to toxic cadmium. Suffer from ‘memory effect’, whereby if you don’t wait for all energy to be used up before recharging, after recharging the battery can only output the energy that was put in in the last recharge.
Lithium-Ion
Pros – lowest self-discharge rate of any rechargeable battery type, less than 10% per month. Considered impossible to overcharge, you can recharge at any time.
Cons – not widely available in cylindrical shapes (required to fit inside PeeDars). Quite expensive. If left unused its performance is hindered by age. Although not vital, it is best to recharge before all battery energy is used up.
Alkaline
Pros – simply that it can be recharged
Cons – lowest number of possible recharges, no more than 10-50 max. Relatively expensive.
Summary – best batteries to use:
Ranked in order of 1 being the best (both are very good though!):
1. Rechargeable – Lithium-ion – AAA or 18650 (pictured below) – so far we’ve not experienced any issues with this type of battery in our PeeDars, we’ll update this post if we do! Superior power storage, amazingly constant power output (minimal gradual decline in UV output whilst in use), top power to weight ratio, low (<2% per month) self-discharge rate, rechargeable, and works in a huge range of temperatures. Although initially expensive, not rugged, and best being frequently used and recharged, with recharging occurring before complete energy discharge, we think their performance is worth it.
2. Single Use – Alkaline – AAA – Although not rechargeable, these are the batteries your PeeDar were designed to use, you can find them in most places, they’re a good price, and they fit into the caddy snugly and work very well. Well known brands create very high quality batteries, with strong power outputs, they have very low maintenance requirements and store well for a long time. Extreme temperatures unfortunately reduce their performance quite a bit, this type of battery also outputs gradually less power as it is used.
For all the other types of batteries we see potential issues. NiMH and Lithium batteries are so powerful they may well fry the low drain PeeDar circuitry, these batteries are more ideal for high drain devices such as cell phones, digital cameras and remote control toys. Although not vital, to best preserve the performance of NiMH batteries you should recharge them as soon as their remaining energy reaches 30-50% of their max capacity. NiMH specific battery rechargers are also a requirement. Pre-charged and standard NiMH batterys also have a higher self-discharge rate of 20%/6 months and 40%/month. Heavy Duty, General Purpose, NiCd rechargeable and Alkaline rechargeables are all very low value options for your money spent, either not having much energy output to start with, losing all their energy fast, and in the case of the rechargeables, having a very low limit on the number of times they can be recharged. These batteries also contain the most toxic substances, especially bad for the environment if not recycled.
As battery technology is constantly improving we’ll be sure to update this article with the latest findings. I hope this information is a big help, and do let us know if you have any questions!
https://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/20170531_151513.jpg24483264adminhttps://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/site-logo5-300x137.pngadmin2017-05-31 15:54:442017-06-01 17:02:40What Batteries Are Best For My PeeDar UV Flashlight?
UV is an incredibly effective light source for detecting a wide variety of invisible stains, as well as creating some intriguing visuals. Our PeeDar range of specialised UV urine detecting flashlights provide a real bang for your buck, and after seeing the power outputted customers often ask about whether eye protection is required. We decided to try and create a useful resource to refer back to when contemplating the need for UV protection whilst stain hunting with any black light. Please read further for answers to the following 3 bolded questions:
1.Do I need UV glasses when using black lights? The short answer, to what is a complex and still quite a grey area is, yes. It is always better to err on the side of caution. A slightly longer and fuller explanation follows.
UV flashlights are considered to be weak sources of UV compared with direct sunlight or commercial tanning beds. UV wavelengths of 320nm and below are known to be harmful and the wavelengths to really watch out for. Black lights tend to emit longer, much less damaging wavelength light somewhere in the range of 360nm to 405nm, the danger posed by them is considered minimal/non-existent depending upon who you talk to. The obvious question here relates to what ‘minimal’ refers to, as you can imagine the potential for UV damage varies a lot depending upon for example, your skin type (fair, or dark), exposure time and the type and quantity of UV light, amongst many other factors. Due to there being the potential, however small, of damage to eyes from UVA and UVB wavelengths we recommend going with the safest option of wearing a quality pair of 99-100% UV-protective, or UV400 (filters nms of 400 and below), plastic glasses.
Additionally, customers often hear that UV safety spectacles come in tints that actually enhance fluorescence. We investigated this claim and found that this is only the case with less expensive 390+nm UV flashlights. If you bought a PeeDar, or PeeDar 2.0, safety spectacles don’t appear to enhance fluorescence, all tints we tried (amber/brown/rose) actually reduced our ability to see stain glows against their backgrounds. Cheaper UV lights, on the other hand, those that use 390+nm, tend to emit a large amount of strong visible (non-UV) purple light which covers the stain and background with the same intense purple colour, less contrast means stains are harder to detect. If using 390+nm flashlights amber/yellow tinted spectacles are effective at filtering out most of this problematic visible purple light, therefore letting you see stain glow contrasts against their backgrounds. Urine glows under UV usually have a strong light yellow/amber colour and so pass straight through yellow/amber tints. Unfortunately if backgrounds give off a yellowish colour, or there are stains that glow quite differently in color from yellow (e.g. deep reds of orange juice) they may be harder to spot wearing tinted glasses. Deep brown or metallic tints seemed universally useless for stain hunting, simply making vision darker all-round.
When comparing the contrast/detectability of stains under UV from PeeDars with clear UV safety spectacles against cheaper 390+nm flashlights with amber/yellow spectacles we found zero tint to be more useful. The greater quantity of colours let through the lenses meant stains glowed brighter, in more colors and so were generally more contrasting against their backgrounds whatever the surface! We are performing more tests in this area, so keep tuned to our blog if you’re interested to see what we find!
The take home message is use clear UV safety spectacles for black light nanometers below 390nm (i.e. the PeeDar and PeeDar 2.0), use yellow/amber tinted UV spectacles for 390+nm flashlights (in our opinion the less effective option though).
2. What should I look for when purchasing UV safety glasses?
With so many variations of UV-protective spectacles out there it can be difficult to know which ones are suitable for UV stain hunting. Having seen what is on offer, and having tried out a wide range ourselves we have the following key points to look out for, in order of importance:
* Ensure the glasses block out UV effectively. Marks that state 99 or 100% UV protection or UV400 are ideal. The US’s American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Europe’s Conformité Européene (CE) marks of approval can also provide some assurance that the manufacturer has gone out of their way to remove UV.
You should be able to see the effectiveness of UV filtering by bringing along your black light flashlight with a fluorescent yellow marker pen that glows very strongly under black light UV. In the shop you can simply alternate between shining your black light onto the marker pen through the spectacles and then without. High UV protection should result in a marked/total reduction in fluorescence. Anything other than a very faint hint of a fluorescent glow is likely to mean the UV protection is not adequate. Watch our video below for a demonstration:
Additionally, wide lenses that wrap around your vision, excluding any gaps for UV to reach your eyes are ideal.
* Ensure the UV glasses are well constructed, abiding by well known, stringent safety standards. Again, ANSI and CE marks, preferably with the latest accreditation numbers, are sufficient. Knowing that stringent, well respected standards have been met ensures things like shattering lenses, sharp plastic mold lines, cracked plastic and severe optical warping don’t occur. Also, we tend to prefer plastic over glass lenses, simply due to the much greater value you get for the money you spend. Although this is largely down to personal preference, as both can do a great job at filtering UV, plastics (e.g. polycarbonate, CR39, Trivex) tend to be much lighter, are usually much more impact resistant, can come in a range of colours and as in the case of polycarbonate lenses have built-in UV blocking properties.
* Ensure low visual aberration. Optical clarity, i.e. zero warping/distortion of what you see brought about by lenses that are have irregular thicknesses, is important. Unless you pay a lot for for your safety glasses they will always have some small degree of aberration, but nevertheless locating a pair that has acceptably tiny aberration is key. Aberrations in lenses can cause eye strain, leading to headaches.
* Ensure comfort when being worn. Particularly if you are wearing safety specs for more than a few minutes, purchasing a pair that are comfortable is vital. Key areas to focus on are:
– fit and pressure of the frame on the bridge of your nose
– whether regular prescription glasses easily and comfortably fit under your safety spectacles
– fit and pressure of the frame against the side of your head, resting on your ears
– low fogging potential
3. Can I buy UV-protective glasses from the makers of PeeDar? If not, where can I get good value, effective UV safety spectacles? The manufacturer of the PeeDar range of UV flashlights, Urine Eradication Systems, doesn’t yet make UV protection glasses. We have some great plans for a superior comfort, safe and effective pair of wrap-around UV spectacles. In the meantime, if you’re looking for highly effective, great value UV protection either of the product links below should be more than fit for purpose if you only spend a maximum of 1-2 hours stain hunting per week. We currently use these spectacles for any UV work we do. If you plan on wearing UV filtering spectacles for longer periods of time we recommend you put in a bit more research to purchase a pair with silicone/soft nose bridge inserts and maybe less pressure of the arms on the sides of your head! If you purchase the glasses below and find that the pressure on the nose is uncomfortable what some of our workers do is attach a small bit of tissue paper, using sellotape, to the bridge of the nose section – this seems to remove the issue.
Ideal for wavelengths of 360-390nm (e.g. PeeDar, PeeDar 2.0), clear wrap-around UV safety glasses (note: we’ve attached comfort-improving tissue to the nose bridge!):
If you have bought any UV safety specs remember that all safety glasses need maintenance to keep them good for many years! Try to regularly:
* clean your glasses immediately after use, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid any potential for scratches, use a super-soft lens-cleaning cloth if you can.
* store uv glasses in a clean, dry place, that can’t be stepped on, ideally in a case.
* always replace scratched, ill-fitting, bent or broken, pitted glasses immediately. Such glasses have reduced UV filtering capabilities, break more easily and interfere with your vision.
* if seeking/able to replace parts, always get identical pieces from the manufacturer, so that the safety rating is still valid!
I hope this article has been an interesting read, and a big help, especially if you’re looking on purchasing a pair of effective inexpensive UV filtering safety glasses. If you have any questions do place them in the comments section!
https://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/20150522_165403.jpg24483264adminhttps://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/site-logo5-300x137.pngadmin2015-05-26 16:15:052018-10-04 15:02:38Do I Need UV Glasses When Looking For Invisible Pet Stains With UV Flashlights?
Ultraviolet light creates some really strange and beautiful glows from all kinds of surfaces, yet not everything lights up. So, why does UV light make things glow?
Fluorescence under UV involves some interesting physics associated with parts of atoms called electrons…
Starting with the basics, typical household ultraviolet lights, whether tube, bulb or LED, all emit light that falls into the part of the electromagnetic spectrum next to the visible (400-700nm) section called ultraviolet. You can see the UV region just left of the blacked out visible section in the diagram below:
“Black light” is what is usually emitted from non-commercial, household UV devices. Lights such as these perform a wide range of really useful functions such as locating hidden pet stains, producing super visuals at UV parties, or detecting counterfeit bank notes. Black lights are readily available because they’re quite safe, being longer in wavelength than the much more damaging shorter wavelengths of 320nm and below. Black light, so called because of its dull, low visible light emission, is a sub-section of UV light, residing in the upper/longer wavelength end of the UV range. This range of light is known as “UVA”, and falls within what is known as “near ultraviolet”. The complete range of UV light classifications (some overlap!) can be seen below:
Name
Abbreviation
Wavelength range
Ultraviolet A
UVA
400 – 315 nm
Ultraviolet B
UVB
315 – 280 nm
Ultraviolet C
UVC
280 – 100 nm
Near Ultraviolet
NUV
400 – 300 nm
Middle Ultraviolet
MUV
300 – 200 nm
Far Ultraviolet
FUV
200 – 122 nm
Hydrogen Lyman-alpha
H Lyman-a
122 – 121 nm
Extreme Ultraviolet
EUV
121 – 10 nm
Vacuum Ultraviolet
VUV
200 – 10 nm
The glow that you see when you shine UV light over a surface comes from “phosphors”. Phosphors are substances, typically with a strong/rigid atomic structure and prevalence of delocalized (see this URL for an in-depth explanation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delocalized_electron) electrons, that emit light when exposed to radiation. In this case, the light from phosphorescence is in the visible part of the electromagnetic spectrum. Below is an example of phosphorescence from a home mineral display:
Energy from UV light is initially absorbed by electrons in these phosphors, forcing some electrons to jump into new, farther out and much more unstable orbits around the atomic nuclei they’re part of. Whilst in these faster, more furious, energy rich orbits some energy starts to escape them, cooling and slowing down their pace. This cooling eventually forces the electrons to fall back into their original, more stable orbits. It is primarily this sudden fall back into the electron’s normal, more stable orbit that results in the glows that you see. As the electron falls into its usual orbit (or electron shell, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron_shell) it gives off the remaining energy it had originally absorbed from the UV light, in the form of lower energy/higher wavelength, visible light.
So there you go, a nice and not too technical explanation on how UV causes fluorescence! As always, be sure to pass by our frequently updated blog for the latest and greatest UV information, and indeed the most up-to-date urine eradication systems and technologies!
https://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/different-fluorescence-under-uv.jpg8841025adminhttps://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/site-logo5-300x137.pngadmin2013-12-06 15:20:242014-07-28 10:40:36Why Does UV Light Make Things Glow?
So, you’ve become an ace urine detection agent in your own home, and perhaps now you’re wondering if there is anything else this handy little UV torch does.
The mighty PeeDar doesn’t just find urine stains. Oh no, this wee beauty is capable of much more depending upon your interests and needs! Feast your eyes on the PeeDar’s multiple potential uses below:
Locates other types of household animal and owner stains (often used in hotel cleanliness inspections) e.g. Semen, vaginal fluid, saliva, sweat, faeces, vomit, blood
Crime scene stain identification:
Particular animal stains (e.g. those listed above)
Fingerprints (in conjunction with crime scene fluorescent powder)
Invisible ink (property marking/hidden messages)
Narcotics (e.g. cocaine, amphetamines, MDMA tablets)
Scorpion eradication: other species that fluoresce include crayfish and centipedes
Non-destructive testing – (much more powerful lights are generally needed) e.g. can highlight material inconsistencies in building/vehicle supporting structures
Animal contamination surveys – on property e.g. rat or mouse infestations
Security investigations – can highlight:
False documents/cards
False bank notes
False artwork
Invisible marks/messages
Plumbing leak detection – e.g. via fluorescent dyes placed in drainage system Mineral fluorescence – e.g. gypsum, agate and amber UV parties – many stores now supply paraphernalia that glows at parties
As you can see, UV actually has a vast amount of uses, both domestically as well as commercially. Many of the uses here are complex to describe, which is why I’ll be making special feature posts on each of these topics over the coming months. We hope you enjoyed them!
Best regards
Urine Eradication Systems Team
https://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/scorpion-for-blog-post.jpg270710adminhttps://urineeradicationsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/site-logo5-300x137.pngadmin2013-09-02 14:50:032013-09-03 21:26:26The PeeDar & Its Many Other Uses…
Pet urine is utterly repulsive on the best of days, and particularly embarrassing when having guests around – especially if it’s a dinner party!
You know your cat or dog has sprayed/urinated in the house somewhere, but can’t seem to find the evidence.
You’ve got your PeeDar – now there is NO NEED to slowly crawl around your house on your hands and knees feeling the ground for wet patches, looking for feint discolorations and sniffing the air for something disgusting. Just follow UES’s fail-safe procedure below for fast and easy pet stain detection!
Plan Ahead – book time in the evening, or early morning, before daylight to begin your search for urine patches. Failing this, book time during the day if you are able properly black out each room you search.
Wear Comfortable Clothes – walking and bending over to examine stains should not be difficult.
Take Small & Lightweight Markers (e.g. Post-it notes, or failing that pieces of paper) that you can leave on each stain around the house that you find. This enables you to easily comeback when you’re ready.
Add Batteries – ensure your brand new PeeDar has been filled with 3 fully charged regular AAA batteries.
Start Where It’s Darkest – Aim to start your urine hunt at one end of the house, methodically and carefully moving through the whole of the house. If you’re searching during the day, start off in the darkest corner of the house to give you the best chance of seeing fluorescence e.g. basement, rooms with smaller windows etc.
Don’t Waste Time, Move Efficiently -In each room hold the PeeDar approximately 2-3 feet from the carpet, and slowly walk (roughly half the average walking pace) along the length of the room moving the torch from left to right just in front of your feet. When commencing searching you’ll likely be right next to walls, so shine the torch up to your pet’s maximum height on the wall (and over anything adjacent to it such as curtains) as you move along the floor. When you’ve reached the end of the room, continue this searching process on the next approximately shoulder-width strip of the floor bordering the area you’ve just covered. Your movements will likely closely resemble that of someone mowing the lawn!
Examine Fluorescence – If you notice any contrasting fluorescence, stop and take a closer look at it, and if you can bear it, sniff the air for any telltale pet urine smells (typically rancid and strongly ammonia-like). You may also want to move the torch closer to draw out more fluorescence. We’ve generally found that no closer than approximately half a foot works best for the maximum useful fluorescence. Cat and dog pee can often cover a wide area (2-3 foot or more) and so standing back a little, as well as moving the torch 1-2 foot away can help you to distinguish larger feint staining patterns. Additionally, don’t just search the walls and floor, animals such as cats can be very inventive with where they urinate, so be sure to examine anything they could realistically climb on e.g. cupboards, bookcases, under the sofa, behind the TV etc.
Mark Suspect Areas – If you find an area that looks like a stain, put down markers so that they completely cover the suspect area, then resume your search. Typically you will find only “dried” pee stains, since liquid urine is unable to fluoresce much at all. Moisture detectors are better at detecting fresh urine stains, which by their very nature are usually visible and felt through touch anyway. Dried pee stains fluoresce brighter due to a more solid, crystalline molecular composition and are typically light green for cats, and light yellow for dogs – but these colors can vary depending upon the breed/species/diet/age/general health etc of the animal. If you’re just after urine stain eradication, ignore other stains of different colors e.g. detergents that often fluoresce as a much more vibrant light blue/violet white. Old stains (3+ months) can be faded in appearance under UV when compared to recent stains. Additionally, with thick fabrics such as carpets most stains can’t be 100% removed, and so although not smelling may always appear as a very feint fluorescing glow.
If you’ve followed our advice above,you can pat yourself on the back for a job well done! You’ve found all the stains to eradicate in a few easy steps. Have a good rest, before the next step – complete stain removal (in a supporting blog post coming shortly)!
Best regards
Urine Eradication Systems Team
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